June 29, 2011

What is Skin Bleaching?
Skin bleaching is a process used to treat discoloration of the skin, known as Hyper pigmentation. Hyperpigmentation has become a growing concern
for many cosmetic patients. To understand why it occurs and how it can be
treated and prevented, we must first understand how skin pigmentation is determined.
One’s own unique skin color is determined by a pigment called melanin. This pigment
is synthesized within melanosomes which are specialized cellular compartments (AKA
organelles). These melanosomes are located within cells called melanocytes. It
is here that melanin is produced. Vital for the successful synthesis and distribution of
melanin is an amino acid called Tyrosine. This amino acid is important because
it produces an enzyme call Tyrosinase. This enzyme helps make the transfer of
melanin from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte possible, by increasing the
rate of the reaction by over a million times! Once the melanosome has produced
enough melanin, it is transferred to keratinocytes (the most abundant cell
types in the epidermis). Here melanin gets dispersed resulting in ones own
unique skin color.
Besides being responsible for
skin and hair color, melanin is also essential in protecting our skin from
excess UV radiation. Unfortunately, melanin is simply not enough protection.
For optimal skin health, it is important to know how to be protected against
harmful UV radiation and other free radicals, which increase melanin
production. Using sunscreen or sunblock on a daily basis is a good skin regime
to always maintain, especially before exposure to sunlight. Another important
way is by supplying our body with enough antioxidants, both topically and
internally. When searching for skin bleaching treatments, make sure that they
contain antioxidants. Here at ASDM Beverly hills, we have a special product called Super Strength
Bleaching Cream, that contains all the important skin bleaching agents and is
rich in antioxidants.

Always keep in mind that you are what you eat. Maintaining
a healthy diet rich in antioxidants (vitamin C and A) is key to achieving that
perfectly clear and fair complexion. Now that we have a better understanding of
the mechanisms behind skin color, we can now address the treatment aspect of
hyperpigmentation. Some of the most common naturally derived ingredients in
skin bleaching creams are kojic acid, arbutin, and licorice root.
Kojic Acid
Kojic
Acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice. Since the enzyme
Tyrosinase contains copper, Kojic Acid is able to effectively chelate (remove)
the copper by lowering the PH level around Tyrosinase. Once the copper cofactor
is removed, Tyrosinase activity is suppressed and hence so is melanin
production. Since being discovered by the Japanese in the early 1990s, Kojic
Acid has become one of the most favored agents to help combat hyper pigmentation.
Arbutin
Arbutin
is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone that is found in the dried
leaves of pear trees and other plants such as bearberry. It is a structural
homology of Tyrosinase, meaning that it has a similar structure as Tyrosinase,
but different type of activity. This results in Arbutins effective inhibitory
effects on Tyrosinase activity and thus melanin production.
Licorice Root
Licorice
Root contains an active compound called Glabridin, which helps treat ailing
skin (dermatitis, eczema, skin irritation, etc.). It has anti-inflammatory,
antioxidant and skin whitening properties. When used for skin lightening,
Glabridin may inhibit melanogenesis via two mechanisms : inhibition of the
production of active oxygen species or inhibition of Tyrosine. More research is
needed to fully understand how Glabridin affects melanin production, but
research has shown it to have great potential as a natural skin bleaching agent.
Patience is a virtue when it comes
to skin bleaching
In this
fast paced world it can become a rather challenging task, waiting to see
results. Depending on the severity of
each persons skin condition, it can take a couple to several months to see results. Successful skin bleaching also
depends greatly on how much care is given to preventing against further damage.
Taking proper precautions to avoid exposure to sunlight and always using
sunscreen or sunblock with SPF 80 and above are important precautionary
measures.
References used
Baumann,
L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: . Retrieved from http://books.google.com/books?id=JANbcDi89VoC&pg=PA279&lpg=PA279&dq=%22currently+available+topical+agents+used+to+treat+hyperpigmentation%22&source=bl&ots=rxvQPZ6FQ6&sig=Wvyr6_HOoycJV2f73WbvZGhUjZs&hl=en&ei=uJzNTeDCHoPi0QGu3Jz2DQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=%22currently%20available%20topical%20agents%20used%20to%20treat%20hyperpigmentation%22&f=false Sabinsa
Corporation.Licorice CG product write up. Retrieved from http://www.ankalet.com/sabinsa/LicoriceExtractCG3.htm
Yotkota,
T., Nishio, H., Kubota, Y., and Mizoguchi, M. 1998. The Inhibitory Effect of
Glabridin from Licorice Extracts on Melanogenesis and Inflammation. Pigment Cell Research. II: 355-361.
Wenyuan,
Z., Jie, G. (2008). The use of botanical extracts as topical skin-lightening
agents for the improvement of skin pigmentation disorders. Journal of
Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 13(20-24),
Retrieved from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18369335 botanical extracts
as topical skin-lightening agents for the improvement of skin pigmentation
disorders.
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